A Business Opportunity

WANTED!
Solar powered fans.  An opportunity exists, for motivated salesperson with access to 120 solar powered fans.  There are 120 poeple with Vitiligo currently gathered at the Dead Sea in need of personal solar powered fans.  Possibility to makes millions of Euro in one day.  All enquiries welcome!

This is what we need for the one or so hours that you have to lie in the sun both morning and evening. There are fans around, but the electricity plugs do not work.  Such is Jordan.

Treatment for Darcy went well this morning with the eczema settled back down.  Another treatment this afternoon at 4pm.

Tomorrow we are off to the desert to stay overnight in camps like the bedouins.  We are going by bus to Wadi Rum and returning on Thursday.  No posts while I am away but stay tuned.... I'll be back.

Thanks again for messages, in lieu of solar-powered fans, messages from home are welcome relief.

Update

A quick update...
Prof's arm ok, no break, just sprain.
Kid with tummy had heatstroke. Phew, glad she is ok.
All good.  Off to do the washing in the bath.  At least it dries in a nano-second.
Secret home-brew of carrot and celery juice and other secret ingredients at 11am today and then every day.
Loving the messages from home.  I only have limited Internet access so difficult to reply to everyone, but I will try. xxxx

Dramatic afternoon.  All started well.  New afternoon session time of 4pm.  Business as usual.  In the indoor pool because so hot outside.  I did video - below.  The DS water was stinging some of the kids everywhere.  Darcy  was in a fair bit of pain.  I could not work out why.  It was unbearable for her so we got out after 10 minutes and I went to the Prof.  She said because of the 45 min of chlorine pool.  More on this later.

We had a thorough rinse, applied the cream then relaxed in the shade.  The kids were all in a buoyant mood and were all enjoying lying around.  So a good afternoon, not too hot a nice cool breeze.

THe Prof came in and advised that for Darcy, the chlorine has made her eczema flare up again (we did not go in the pool for the last 3 days).  The chlorine also softens the skins and dried it our so the salty DS stings the soft skin.  No pool tomorrow.  Darcy (and the other kids) recovered quickly.

The next development was that the Prof fell over and has injured her arm or hand.  She has gone to Amman for an xray.  Everyone is very worried for her. Fingers crossed she is OK.

Lastly, one of the girls is feeling unwell.  Another girl was sick for 2 days with a vomitting bug, now another has gone down.  We are of course not only worried about them being unwell, but for our impending trip to the desert, one does not want to have diarrhoea or vomitting on a bus and camping trip.  You have to pay almost AUD $300 to go on this trip (1 adult + 2 kids) and no refunds.   oooooooohhhh????  What to do?  We shall see how things pan out.

Treatment 28/4 part 2

Dramatic afternoon.  All started well.  New afternoon session time of 4pm.  Business as usual.  In the indoor pool because so hot outside.  I did video - below.  The DS water was stinging some of the kids everywhere.  Darcy  was in a fair bit of pain.  I could not work out why.  It was unbearable for her so we got out after 10 minutes and I went to the Prof.  She said because of the 45 min of chlorine pool.  More on this later.

We had a thorough rinse, applied the cream then relaxed in the shade.  The kids were all in a buoyant mood and were all enjoying lying around.  So a good afternoon, not too hot a nice cool breeze.

THe Prof came in and advised that for Darcy, the chlorine has made her eczema flare up again (we did not go in the pool for the last 3 days).  The chlorine also softens the skins and dried it our so the salty DS stings the soft skin.  No pool tomorrow.  Darcy (and the other kids) recovered quickly.

The next development was that the Prof fell over and has injured her arm or hand.  She has gone to Amman for an xray.  Everyone is very worried for her. Fingers crossed she is OK.

Lastly, one of the girls is feeling unwell.  Another girl was sick for 2 days with a vomitting bug, now another has gone down.  We are of course not only worried about them being unwell, but for our impending trip to the desert, one does not want to have diarrhoea or vomitting on a bus and camping trip.  You have to pay almost AUD $300 to go on this trip (1 adult + 2 kids) and no refunds.   oooooooohhhh????  What to do?  We shall see how things pan out.

 

Treatment Day 5

Oh my heavens, this place is hot.  I thought it was hot last week, but it is so hot.

Yesterday on our trip to Petra, the Prof sent a message to us that treatment will start at 8am, half an hour earlier than normal.

So the girls snaffled a pastry from the buffet and we set off down to the Medical Centre.  Yanna sat out of todays dip in the DS as yesterday with all the walking she has a slight bit of chafing on her legs.  This would hurt in the DS.  So Darcy and I ventured in.  At 810 we got out (still 15mins but we were a bit early) and headed up to the Solarium.

HOT, so hot!  Darcy really struggled this morning.  The sun is not at all burning, it is just so hot.  I fan her continuously for one hour. One girl feinted this morning.  The Prof was there (she is here with her father - so hard for those girls as there is no one to look after them) and looked after her.  She was OK.  She had not had breakfast so it was all too much.  Darcy cried in bits and I ended up moving her head into the shade (this is OK to do) for the last bit.  4 positions of 15 minutes each is quite a long time.  All the mums (and Yanna) work together to help each other.  One of the girls Dad just arrived and he brought her a little plug in fan.  Best present ever.  That would not be any good for us as the power point next to Darcy's spot, does not work.  Mum's fanning will have to suffice.

We went to breakfast afterwards, then down to the pool for our 45 mins of pool time.  This was the first time that I could sit down and relax since arriving. It is welcome relief to not cook / clean etc, but still aint no holiday.

The treatment time this afternoon is pushed back to 4pm to try and avoid some of the heat.

Treatment Day 5

Petra Day Trip

Off to Petra -  A (looooong) daytrip planned and we were on the bus by 6am ready for the 4 hours drive to Petra.  At this point I have to mention that this drive would have taken 2.5 hours but we live here by Jordan-time.  We have to stop, stuff around for a bit.  "take some cafe break" etc.  For the most part the drive was fairly monotonous, like the surface of the moon, then at about 945am we stopped at the top of a valley. Looking down, there didn't appear to be much.  So we drove onwards, down, down, winding, winding, down to the bottom.  Then we walked through a dusty carpark through a ticket booth.  We then had to walk a further 30-40 minutes.  A little way into the walk, we noticed the rocks rising on either side.  Like a canyon.  Soon the walls of the canyon were hundreds of meters above us and we were winding through a narrow passage way.  This passage was worn away by wind and water millions of years ago.  It was cool and there was a nice breeze.  This was very welcome relief from the oppressive heat of the DS.  Eventually, you emerge from the canyon walls through to an open area where this massive "Treasury" stands before you.  A massive building carved into the rock.  I posted a small video of this earlier.  It is most impressive.  All around there are more building carved into the rock and caves, and stairs.  This place, Petra, used to be a mojor trade centre,art of the Silk Road which caravan traversed to trade between the western and eastern parts of this whole area.

We walked a little way on and came to a further open area where there was a massive amphitheatre carved into the rock and many more tombs and buildings.  It is very impressive again.  We sat in a little cafe and had some snacks to get some energy back before setting off further into the area.  We wandered around then back to the Treasury.

Too exhausted for the enormous walk out we caught a horse and cart.  A bit of a crazy ride as the horses go quite fast.  Once back at the top we regrouped with our group, got back on the bus and headed back home.  Home at 830pm - quite the day.  Straight to the buffet then shower and bed.  

Photographs from Petra

Ishall write more wordslater.  Here are some photographs from our trip to Petra.

Darcy and Yanna Raid the Lost Ark

Darcy and Yanna at the Treasury in Petra.  More on this later.  Love to all. xxxL

A partial eclipse of the heart

Breakfast, 830am treatment #1 in Dead Sea followed by sunshine for an hour, then retreated to the room, lunch at 12.30, a snooze in the afternoon, treatment #2 in DS at 330pm followed by kids club (run for me). 6pm another appointment with the Professor - eczema assessment, shower, dinner, BBQ, dancing with the Professor followed by a partial eclipse of the big old moon.  Just another day at the office.

I have learned a bit today... that Darcy has a spot of vitiligo on her toes which I have not previously noticed... Matthew have you?  On her right little toe and the ring-finger toe next door to it.  Hardly noticeable.  The Prof assures me it has always been there and I just have not noticed it.  Can any parent know every inch of their children's anatomy?  Anyway a bit mixed up over that one as Vit on the hands and feet is a real pisser.  A bugger to re-pigment.  Other bits are easier  re-pigment, but hands-and-feet-Vit is stubborn as.  With a bit of luck it will not spread.

I have also learned "Acknowledge, Reassure and Distract"  The trick that those gifted folk with Vitiligo use to counter those awkward social situations.

I have a skin condition called Vitiligo.

It does not hurt and is not contagious.

How 'bout those Waratah's?

Sounds good to me.  There is a scottish lass here that is a child psychologist working with the Prof. She also does kids club and various other tasks (aqua-aerobics) the Prof has quite the entourage.  Anyway she is going work with the kids to up-skill them in dealing with teasing etc as it may present itself.

Finally, I have learned that Euro is king in the Middle East.  BTW, I have zero Euro.  Following that, the Aussie dollar is very foreign.  In fact, one receives looks of horror as I flash our ground breaking post-modern plastic flouro money.  I think they think I am playing jokes.  Watch this space how I try and deal with one....

Some more pictures

The first photo is after leaving our 15 mins in the DS, walking back up to the Prof at the top of the stairs.  Outdoor showers on the right and left.  The yellow-ish building at the top of the stairs is the Medical Centre.  It has lots of consulting rooms.  4 solariums (all outdoor) bathrooms and 2 pools filled with Dead Sea Water.  One indoor about the size of a normal Aussie out door pool, and one a similar size outside under some shade sails.

The second photograph is looking back down to the Dead Sea.  Israel in the background.  Spectacular.

It is really hot here.  35-40 degrees at midday.  The other day it was so hot, we had our treatment in the indoor pool at the Medical Centre then lying in the shade. 

Anzac Day - treatment day 3

In the evenings we are so exhausted... the days are pretty exhausting so we all slept well and as usual, Darcy the monkey awoke early and begged that she could jump on Yanna to wake her up.  Emphatic "no" was the answer.  Poor Yanna, just wants to sleep.  We will have a sleep this afternoon to restore our energy levels.  I think most kids have "hit the wall" after the excitement of the first days.

So, Stop motion pictures taken, iBook downloaded (The Famous Five) and then off to breakfast.  Just as we were walking past the Sports Bar, my ipad skype rang and it was Matthew but we couldn't get a connection.

Breakfast was a bit rushed this morning, but never the less we make it to the medical centre on time.  We leave all the stuff you need for the "treatment" in the solarium and then walk down the stairs to the DS.  The Professor greeted us with an enormous cuddle for Darcy.  She really is passionate about what she does and loves it.  I took the photograph attached at this time.

The long march down to the water, enjoying the spectactualar panoramic view across to Isreal.  A beautiful clear morning with just light cloud.  We like light cloud cover.

830am - 15mins in the DS - no stinging anywhere today, we are getting used to it.  Then out and back up to the Prof at the top of the stairs.  "15 Mins each position - 4 positions".  That was for Darcy. Yanna splashed (accidentally) water on her face this morning and it became quite inflamed and red and very itchy.  We had to rinse that thoroughly as it was quite panful for her.

Even with the light cloud, it was still pretty hot for the girls.  Slathered in their special "german home brew" cream they get quite hot and sweaty.

As Yanna read The Famous Five to three of the girls, I fanned, ferried water, kept the naked kids in the correct positions and tried to source a fan.  We found one and got it working through one dodgy power point.  The Prof came in to inspect and advised various things to the various paients.

One hour is a long time to lie in the sun so the kids get bored and hot and irritated.  Bless them, they stick it out!  We did move about half way through such that their heads were in the shade which bought some relief.

No pool today as advised by the Prof.  I know my girls are really exhausted.  Lunch is soon then wee will have a nap.  330pm another treatment, then kids club (this is when I do a run & swim).  6pm we have an appointment with the Prof to assess Darcy's eczema which is clearing up beuatifully, then tonight there is Vitiligo BBQ.  THe kids are excited.

Happy Anzac to all.  Any winners in 2-up?  Thanks to the Finters of Mudgee for thier well wishes.  Love to all and more later.  xxxLY&D

The effects of the Dead Sea

As noted in the previous post... the Dead Sea really stung Darcy's skin.  Here is an up close photo of her skin about 15 mins after getting out.  This is her in the solarium (don't be alarmed it is like sunbaking - natural sunlight).  Despite this inflammation.  The eczema is almost gone today, and no where near as bad as it was yesterday.

Another video

Darcy the Brave

Hello world...
I have prepared a whole bunch of info for you below with some ins and outs of the treatment so far.
Love to you all. Lindsey & Yanna & Darcy Jane.

23/4

145pm.  First meeting with the Prof.  She was kind and welcoming and seemed genuinely happy to see Darcy and shared the success of her treatment.  She showed black white photos of Darcy at her first treatment that I had not seen before.  Horrific.  I started crying.  You forget about how chronic it was.

She looked at Darcy again under the woods lamp and was thrilled that no further Vitiligo appears deep in the skin layers.  Darcy was naked for this bit.

Discussed the use of Zinc to protect sensitive areas whilst you are swimming in the DS.  Bottoms and front bottoms, cuts and sore, lips in some cases.  Gave me a little  pot of zinc. About the size of an old film canister - slightly smaller.

Went through all the blood test results that we took with us courtesy of our GP in Sydney.  Commented on Darcy's eosinophils (sp?) and they are an indicator for eczema.  Darcy has extensive eczema under one arm and between her knees.  Prof put some cortisone cream on them and discussed how the DS will really sting this but it will also clear it up in 2 days.

I spoke to the Prof about Darcy's knees.  She said that she did not believe that Darcy has childhood arthritis and also said that any conditions that she has in her knees that the DS will cure it all ... her exact words.... "Let us see how it goes".  Prof is not doubting the doctors and methods of treatment, she is doubting the diagnosis.  It is linked to her Vitiligo.  Perhaps there is another type of arthritis that is specific to auto immune spectrum.  I would not be surprised if this place cured everything.  It has health and well being written all over it.

She took all the results and she will go through them in more detail.

Prof spoke of how "the climate" is so different here.  The very low UV sunshine (filtered because below sea level and salts in atmosphere), the minerals in the air and water.  All this is so helpful for the body.  Prof believes that many ailments can be treated here.

You can see this salty haze over the sea and you see the salts in the water, the water, whilst crystal clear, has like a emulsified oil slick running through it.

Have not gone near the DS mud yet... but i'll get to that later.  Apparently it is like the DS concentrated. 

Said start treatment today at 330pm - this is the "afternoon session" that all  the Vit's do.  All the families get in to.  All up about 50 people in the water.  There are heaps of seats along the shore.  One group bought a horn like at a Sth American football game and whenever someone new turned up... they belted out a tune and everybody cheered and sang.  It was very welcoming and fun.  I think they were Germans.  A lot of German people here.

TREATMENT - 330pm 23/4.  15min bobbing in DS in swimers.  Rinse and wash off*.  Apply cream and 5 mins on back, 5 mins on front in full sun.  Arms above head.  Then 30 mins (total - do various positions to make up the 30 mins) in shade.  Note:  It was a very hot afternoon and we are at the beginning of the treatment and Darcy's skin is not yet acclimated to the sun.  Also note that the Prof stands at the top of the stairs and greets you individually and asks how you are feeling, looks at you and then says an individual treatment just for you.  

* Darcy was fine in the DS for the first 10 minutes, but the last 5 were excruciatingly painful for her.  Her eczema was so flared up - like red welts.  she was crying and was trying to be brave.  It is mega itchy and was stinging her.

The professor was very caring and kind and helped her wash off in the shower - even booted some guy out so she could use the shower (outdoor, in swimsuits).  She therefore advised a less brutal sun regime (doing the solar part in the shade today).  Once in the soalrium, we had another long cool shower (outdoor showers in the sun) naked.  There is 4 solariums.  Men, Women, Boys and Girls.  We are in the girls one.  Today there were 7 girls (aged 11, 10, 10, 10, 7, 7, 7), their mums and two had sisters.  All patients completely naked during this part.  After the soothing shower, Darcy still in a lot of pain.  Her eczema was like massive red welts and she also had a rash like mottling everywhere. We applied her cream and she lay in the sun for the 5 mins each side.  I think the sun did not help that is why the Prof only said 5 mins.  Once in the shade (after 10 mins) Darcy's skin had calmed down a bit and the pain had subsided.  She had by this time also stopped crying.  Pretty traumatic experience.  All the other mums explained that they had gone through a similar thing.  One 10 year old chatted to Darcy about it and said that she had had the same thing (eczema and Vitilgo are good mates apparently).  Her rash has now disappeared.  This girl had 80% pigment loss and has been doing Profs treatment for 5 years.  I would say she now has 30-40% pigment loss.  Absolutely lovely girl.  Very clever.

Darcy liked hearing this story and ask that it be told again. I have explained to Darcy that her skin will get used to the salt and sun and that after a few days, it will not be so painful.  The next days will be a challenge.

Yanna & Darcy bobbing

Message from the Middle East

Hello blog world from the Dead Sea.

The Dead Sea is spectacular.  Our room, the resort & medical facilites are all VERY comfortable. Darcy has her first appt with the Prof this afternoon.  We arrived yesterday after an excruciating flight from Sydney via Dubai.  
The girls had a swim (bobbed around) in the Dead Sea this morning. Now they are playing on the waterslide (in one of the 4 pools!!).  There are many other vitiligo families here from all over the world so they have lots of friends.  The weather is bitingly hot in the sun, but cool in the shade and in our room.  It is very glarey because the mountains that rise up around us (actually not mountains as they are at sea level - we are actaully in an enormous escarpment) are all gray / brown and sandy.  Not much greenery but the view and sorrounds are pretty impressive.

The bad news is that the Hotel WiFi is dismal so the thought of uploading anything to the blog might be impossible. Somehow I will get the information out there to the masses, even if it is upon my return.  Maybe we could do a wine, cheese and slide night when I get back.  Ha! I am currently in business centre of the hotel where the reception is much better (stronger signal).  I will try and come here most days to get some details down.

Love to all, and I will try to keep the blog updated.

Lunch and a farewell vino

I know it's touristy, but the Rocks on Sundays is a lovely place to be.  We enjoyed a steak and salad at Phillip's Foote and a walk through the markets.

Darcy's Dead Sea Odyssey Departure Day

Good Morning All, it must be a good sign, the sun is shining in Sydney after yesterday's thumping rains.  Aunty Beat left for London, Paris and Brussels - have fun B and keep us posted regarding those waffles!
Today we are finishing the packing, cuddling Daddy heaps and going to get some lunch in the sunshine.

Farewell gorgeous girls!!!

  Good bye Emily & Harper.  Have fun.

 

Little one in very capable hands.  Em has always had the perfect brow.  Even at almost 12 years old.

 

 Darcy Jane seeing the world a little more clearly.

Today is Friday !!

Good morning blog world!
A day of mixed emotions.  We are gearing up for the big adventure with mild excitement, but today we say good bye to Emily for a week, off to Oma's and goodbye to Harper until mid May (sob, sob) off to Oma's as well.  Love my gals and trust that they will have a safe and happy time.  Skype will keep us in virtual-touch.

Lots of questions from all our vit-mates regarding the impending trip - especially regarding the word around vit-town that this trip to Jordan could be the last group organised out of Germany.  I will also try at some stage to type-down in the blogosphere all that we have gone through to get to this point. Here is the list of questions so far...

 

1. Will she be going to Jordan next year!

2. Will she ever come to Australia?

3. Once she retires who will run her practice?

4. Any new developments?

We were so pleased to hear of the safe arrival or Ann and Talia at the Dead Sea.... fingers crossed that their luggage arrives soon too.  Keep me posted Ann, I can easily toss in an extra few things for you and the precious girl.

Off to do more packing etc.  Welcome to new Darcy-fans.

Darcy gets a tooth check up before the Odyssey - all good no nasty cavities.  Straight after we went to get the peepers checked out and what do you know?  Ol' 2 eyes is now 4 eyes!  Dad will pick up the flashy new specks tomorrow.  Maybe now we wont do our "p's" and "b's", "6's" and "9's" backwards ? 

Recent Vitiligo Group Meeting

Hi blog world!
Here is a photograph from our Vitiligo morning tea held in March.
Thank you to all who came to share a coffee, life and the latest happenings in Vit-world.

To Amit, Ann & Talia, we'll see you in Jordan next week.  Love to all.  Darcy & Lindsey. xxxx

Aaaah... Tokyo, my new BFF.  I am so sad that we will leaving you today.  When will I see you again?  I feel as though we were just starting to get to know you.
Alas, we lay around all morning, looking East as the sun rose over Tokyo.  We watched some TV, read the paper (farewell Maggie Thatcher and hands off that button North Korea!) and had a swim before packing and heading out to see our new BFF again.  We asked the Hotel to babysit the luggage until the late afternoon and booked the airport shuttle for 3:50pm.

We took off on the subway, Ginza line to Ueno park to the unfinished business of the Museum disctrict.  First some sushi lunch on the 7th floor above the subway station.

When you arrive at a Sushi restaurant, the chefs herald your arrival with Japanese cheers and greetings making you feel mildly important.  We ordered varions on a sushi theme including Green Tea, Miso and a little salad for the unbleivable price of AUD8.80.

The sushi chef stands just in front of us crafting sushi as though he is speaking to us in sign language.  Expertly fashioning the rice and fresh raw fish with calm competent dexterity.  The food, once again was fantastic. Refreshed, full tummied we headed to the park where there are no less that 7 museums and galleries and the zoo!  More cheers and farewells from all the staff upon our departure.

The Museum of Western Art (below - building designed by Le Corbusier) has a large collection of French Impressionist art.  In one room alone there were 12 Monets including Waterlillies and Irises.  Just what I needed - some calm, patient and quiet Japan.  Next we headed to the National Science and Nature Museum to see all the usual taxidermied animals and dinosaur skeletons as well as the full 360 degree sphere theatre where you stood on the inside of an enormous globe and were in one moment flying through space and the next plunged into the deep.  Spectacular, the kind of fun you long to share with children.

Now at the end of our energy reserves we sat in the cafe for a spell before working up the energy to subway it home.  We stopped at Starbucks for one last recharge before heading to the airport shuttle.

The airport is about 80 km from the city - just over an hour.  We mooched and tried desperately to stay awake before heading home on the overnight flight, read: sleep, gratifying hedonistic sleep.  We arrived home at 715 am just in time to see the kids before they headed off to school. 

So exhausted but with a brain overflowing with fabulous memories that will last a life time.  Thank you to the best husband in the world for the best present ever.  Sayonara Tokyo... we'll be back.

Escape to the country - Part 3

Recharged, we headed out again.  We had a walk around the Imperial Palace in mind, however the thought of going underground again to get the subway made us quiver, so we left the hotel on foot walking east.  Poor boyfreind has upset tummy, so we took it easy.  We stumbled across a Japanese style garden replete with Koi and cherry blossoms.  It was lovely and quiet.  I fear that Matthew and I have reached the end of our energy reserves.  Not even a vat of berocca could raise us.

So we browsed around this garden (Kokkaimae), walked up to the moat and around to the Sakurada-mon (gate) along the Imperial Palace then headed back to the hotel.  Again we left on foot for nearby Asakasa to find something for dinner.  Matthew with upset tummy and me in agreement felt like pizza so we found a Japanese-style pizza which was just what we needed.  home again... shattered.  

Escape to the country - Part 2

So, we left the calm area of Yanaka and headed for Akihabara, again, a tale of 2 cities.  Akihabara, I have used all the words possible, billboard overload, neon, lights, noise, people - everywhere, people, chaos and craziness all jam-packed-squished into a few blocks of mayhem.  Streets spill over with signs and knick knacks and equipment.  Cameras, phones, digital this and that.  All the stuff that you and I will be buying in 2 years time but today... you have no idea what it does.  Overwhelmed again - now being overwhelmed is getting boring.  We shuffled and clambered our way up alleys, down basements, up escalators and around corridors to find everything and nothing.

Serendipity did happen when we discovered Ginzo - a sushi restaurant where the chefs stand afore your table and celebrate with every arriving patron.  The sushi was prepared in front of you and was melting in the mouth.  It was also served with the customary green tea, miso and on this occasion a kind of unsweet custard with bacon in it.

Re-energised, we manned-up and headed back out in to the streets in search of the robot wonderland Matthew so desired.  It came in the form of Yodabashi Akiba - an 8 storey JB-HiFi on enough horse testosterone to sink the whole Tour de France.  Look, I've had enough of trying to describe this joint,  it is just unbelievable.  Anyway, we have learned to take the elevator up to the top floor then work your way down like a feather floating, swinging in to each level to browse, and jaw-drop.

Shattered, again, we headed home to flake out and rest.  Matthew had a swim (replete with slippers and more bowing)  I just sat on the bed and breathed - for about 20 minutes.  How do people live here?  I would love it, but also what a head spin.

More later......

Escape to the country - Part 1

Another early start - despite the minute 1 hour time difference from Sydney, we are still waking up early.  So another relaxing morning - including a spa and swim, with swimming caps, slippers and lots of bowing.  There are no fatty Japanese peoples, understandably given the small (and perfect) portion sizes, the walking around the subways, and the gargantuan amounts of bowing.

After the swim we set off for the outskirts of Tokyo to do a walk through Yanaka.  Appealing as it reminds me of the gorgeous Yanna, second-born, most likely at school working hard. Peak hour on the subway is a sight to behold.  We descended the familiar path to the Ginza line to be overwhelmed (we thought we had been overwhelmed before, but, no.... today was overwhelming) by a sea, ocean, universe of navy / black suits with black hair.  The station-hands pushed people - including me! - on to the train, squashing me against complete strangers who received their punishment in stone faced silence.  #1 Boyfriend and I, on the other hand, got the major giggles.  It was amazing shocking and mildly disturbing, also hilarious.  After a few stops of agreeable, friendly pushing and shoving of salary men getting on and off, we left the CBD hotspots and ended up at Ueno station.  North and quiet.  None of the white noise that hums in your inner brain whilst in the Tokyo Mecca.  We grabbed a coffee, sat and regrouped - read: recovered from the subway pushing.  A quick connection on the JR Train (above ground) landed us in a haven of Tokyo suburbia.  Beside a peaceful graveyard.  We followed the guidebooks suggested path along narrow alleys and felt like we were amongst some of the more real Tokyo.  Not the celluloid, fluoro, contrived order of the city areas.  The walk was a welcome respite, finishing at the Museum area that sits within the culturally calming Ueno park.  At least 5 museums, sit majestically amongst these meticulously manicured gardens.  We tried to visit the Science and Nature Museum - closed on Mondays :(, then the Museum of Western Art, which was closed except for the members.  We decided to come back to this area tomorrow as it was such a relief from the hustle and bustle.

Next stop - Akihabara, brace yourselves, we are about to be catapulted in to Tokyo-robot-outer space.
Above - Matthew buys some ultra-fresh rice crackers from a quaint little shop in Yanaka.

The Birth Day - Part 3

Once back at the hotel, we both collapsed asleep, coma-like for an hour, then up and back at it.  We don't want to waste a second of our time.....  still we have so much to do.   So we headed back to Ginza.  Matthew needed the Sony store, and I had a date with a watch lady who had a fettish for Sponge Bob Square pants.  A cup of tea and a shiny new birthday present on my wrist we headed to do some last minute shopping.  Matthew purchasing all things required for his Sony Action Cam.  We went in to Abercrombie and Fitch - Holy Moly.  Not only are there spunky western looking Japanese guys ushering you in like bouncers but there are more spunky western looking Japanese guys inside with their gear off. Live models. The music is absolutely hammering your sensitive 40 year old eardrums and the elevator takes you up to the 8th floor like something out of a Batman movie.  You then work your way down through the night club - which isn't - it is actually a shop - until once again you are on the street.  The packed intersections and crowded everything are relief from that crazy Abercrombie joint.

Next stop of the subway is Rappongi.  Now more of the same - highrise, restaurants, neon, people everywhere, shops, art again and again, but different.  More new and cutting edge design.  Rappongi, like most of parts of Tokyo has two sides.  Rappongi is new, Chifley-tower schmick but also has the seedy spruiker Kings Cross part - "we have girls".  Eeeeeeeewwww!

After an expenscie drink (AUD34) drink in an ex-pat Bar, we shook that area and headed north towards the Hotel and found "Japanese Spaghetti".  A great little restaurant that served Japanese style spaghetti.  A fantastic combo.  I ordered the Vongole, Matthew the seafood.  I swear we both thought that Matthew's meal was alive.  Check out this link.

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=TsxZ7T1QJTA&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DTsxZ7T1QJTA

There was something in Matthew's bowl that was moving.  Some ultra-sensitive seaweed or something that was writhing in the breeze made it appear as some weird mollusc in its final moments, drowning in a steaming bowl of stock.  Once we realised it was a vegie of some description, we ate up and headed home to more thoroughly investigate our purchases of the day.

The Birth Day - Part 2

It's official... Tokyo and I are mates, and good mates at that.  I think Berlin may be bumped from being my best friend.  We shall see what the next 2 days bring.  So husband and I walked south through Omotesando.  After a quick look-without-purchase in Kiddyland, we easily resisted more "high end shopping" and hung a left down Cat Street.  Given that it was not quite 11am, most shops were shut, but Cat Street was like a Surry Hills in Tokyo. A windy (wiggly) and windy (weather-type) little street filled with quirky, stylish one off shops selling everything from spunky threads to eye-pleasing homeware / kitchenwares.  The shop windows are artistic and enticing.  Following Cat Street all the way to the end spat us out - quite literally - at the Shibuya Crossing.
No jokes - 1,000 people cross at this acre of  intersection every time the light turns green.  The pedestrians scurry like ants from the subways into the shops and restaurants with a feverish pace.  Once again I am saying mindblowing because it is just that.  Right next to Shibuya Crossing, lost in the Ocean of Pre-40 Japanases is a statue of a dog - Hachiko.  Hachiko was a dog in the 1920s that after his master died, he still went to the station everyday hoping for his master to return on the train as he always had.  The locals now use it as a meeting point -(still amazing how you could find anyone anyway).  Like Sydney's Town Hall steps.  See youtube link below.

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=Mqaq1OsFeug&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DMqaq1OsFeug


In need of sustenance, we found a little restaurant - there must be millions in Tokyo, you cannot walk 50m without finding a restaurant of some description.  A quick bowl of steaming noodles and vegies purchased  via a vending machine - weird.  You then take the vending machine ticket to the waitress who passes it to the chef.
We walked the streets of Shibuya northwest to the famed Tokyu Hands.  7 levels of Japanese quirky gadgetry.  70 minutes later, with a massive bag of Tokyu Hands loot we subwayed back to the hotel zombie-like, totally shattered.  3.5 days of going non-stop caught up with us... we could not talk, tooooooooo exhausted.

The Birth Day - part 1

A relaxed start to the day.  A cup of tea in bed, a bit of electronic journal work, skype with the kids (happy birthday Yanna) and a generally lazy beginning.
Then - let Day 4 in Tokyo begin... off to Harajuku and Shibuya.  We caught the subway to Harajuku station and grabbed a coffee before entering the Meiji Jingu Gyoen Park.  A beautiful park alongside the huge skyscrapers that are everywhere.  The Temple within (Meiji Jingu) is a shrine to Emperor Meiji is a big one by Japanese standards and whilst not crowded it was very busy.  A lovely long walk through the park on what was shaping up to be a hot sunny day with a fair bit of wind.

Next we walked back south to investigate Omotesando and Shibuya.  See part 2.

Happy Birthday to me & Noo

Happy Birthday Noo and me!  Today I am 40, although I feel 50 as I think one should not mix red and white wine.  Once you choose a colour... stick with it.
Anyway... onwards.... Happy Birthday to my more than perfect 10 year old little poppet Noo.  We will be thinking about all you from across the equator.  We hope that you like the presents and enjoy the day with Oma and your sister-mates.
Over here in Japan-land, your Dad and I will be heading to Harajuku, Shibuya then back to Ginza and Tokyo Central.  I'll keep you posted on the happenings.

Last night we went to the most magnificent underground dumpling heaven.  As a side point... there is a whole other Tokyo that exists underground.  In the subways and basements of buildings.  Down little stairs, alleys and sneaky caverns you find another labyrinth of exciting little digs.

Back to dumpling Utopia.  Once again, Tokyo by Marni came through with the hottest tip... do not tell Lonely Planet... the joint will be wrecked for sure.  It is called Chibisuke and a few minutes walk from our hotel.  Opposite the 7-11 on Asakasa dori.  The entrance is on Tamachi dori.  Down a wee flight of stairs to a cosy little 20 seater restaurant. The waiter and his mother (grandmother?) serve and cook up the most amazing gyoza.  We kept ordering, not ever wanting the night to end (this is where the aforementioned red and white problem emerged).

We waxed lyrical about bringing the kids here at Christmas... who cares that it rarely gets above 0 degrees?  Not sure about that in the cold light of day.

So this morning of my 40th birthday we are taking it easy, relaxing, reading and preparing for what is sure to be another mahoosive day exploring Tokyo.... where anything is possible and there is a gadget to achieve it.

Forty Years minus one day - Part 3

A quick train trip home to regroup on this Saturday afternoon in a raining Tokyo.  A storm cell developed over the city during the latter part of the day and it is headlines.  You would think that the emerging North Korean Nutter with the itchy finger.  All a bit strange.

Last night we walked through the Sanno Park Tower to the Asakasa area.  Here there were quite a few restaurants and a shopping area with neon and vibe.  Many restaurants and bars, convenience stores and pharmacies.  We ended up n a Thai restaurant as we were both pretty exhausted.

Tonight we are going in search of dumplings.  Cant wait.
Regrouping... more later.

Here is some footage of the Tokyo Fish Market I blogged about in Part 2 of today.

Like I said... Crazy!

Forty Years minus one day - part 2

So.... where were we.  Yes, the Fish Market, we left there and went to Ginza.  The yin, if the Fish Market is yang.  Ginza emerges as a metropolis - think Total Recall. High rise, shining glass, neon, stainless steel and bling in drug-addict dosage.  Ginza, suffering the same up-themselves disease as most of the Gen Y that frequent it, does not start until bloody 11am.  Luckily, light headed from the Fish Market, we were happy to sit and have a coffee (remember to say "milky") while we waited the 20 minutes until 11am.  We wandered down the main drag Chuo Dori - closed to traffic on Saturdays, which is directly above Ginza subway station.  We stopped at a few watch shops - birthday pressie shopping for the birthday girl.  Then we went to the Sony building to buy the birthday girl's boyfriend a Sony action-cam LCD screen.  Note: items over 10,000Yen (app. AUD $100) can be purchased tax (5%) free.  Luckily the screen was under the threshold.  Sony - no where near as "hip" as  the mahoosive Apple store, directly opposite the mahoosive department store Mitsukoshi.  Our spot-on tour-tipper Marni said GO DIRECTLY TO Mitsukoshi, do not pass go.  So we went and visited the food hall as instructed.  OMG! Fantastic fresh everything.
Here is a riddle for you:  What looks like 8 big fat red strawberries in a little box with tissue paper and costs AUD52?  Answer:  8 big fat strawberries..... unbelievable.  We opted for the much cheaper salads and sushi for all up about AUD20.  Great value.  We snacked in a nearby area before heading back to the aforementioned watch shop to secure a birthday gift for the over-indulged birthday girl.  Note to self: be nicer to boyfriend, he really is a super tops catch.
The lovely Japanese Assistant in the watch shop had a Rolex watch - very nice.  She showed us the engraving on the back.....  "Let's soak up this fabulous day", a quote from Sponge Bob Square Pants.  SO Japanese, a Sponge Bob quote on a Rolex.  Aptly illustrating the 2 sides of Japan.
After leaving the shop, we headed to Muji...Like a trendy Ikea, north of Ginza.  Also coming across Loft, another quirk, distinctly Japanese Shop.

After Ginza... we needed refreshments.  Here is my lovely husband trying to make a decision.

Forty years minus one day (part 1).

Saturday morning - day 2 in Tokyo.  We set off early for the Tsujiki Fish Market.  Despite our reading up that it is mind blowing, must see, amazing, we both were skeptical.  How good could it be?  The Sydney Fish Markets are pretty impressive right?  2 subway train rides at lightening speed brought us out in the dock area.  Tokyo seems to be either major modern first world polished or raw, asian, market type earthiness.  Both equally appealing in measured doses.  The "market" part of the market only reserves 120 spaces (2 groups of 60) for tourists and you have to arrive by 5am - then it locks its doors until 9am.  We arrived around 8am and lined up at one of the 50 nearby sushi restaurant that had the shortest queue.  Some queues went for 50m, ours was only about 10m.  At about 830 am we secured a very teeny weeny space in a restaurant that had about 12 spaces.

We had made friends with Angela and Don from Michigan so it was nice to have a chat and enjoy this sensationally fresh Sushi.  It was served with Green Tea and Miso which was also very tasty.  Quite expensive by our standards  - plate, tea and miso = AUD25.  Mind blowingly tasty and melt in the mouth fresh.
By 9am, the "market" part re-opens to the public, so with a tummy full of fresh raw fish, we headed through to the wholesale area.  We were amazed.  I am surprised that there are any fish left in the sea - I think they are all in this market - and this happens 6 days a week (closed Wednesdays).  Corridor, beside corridor of buckets, boxes, vats, fridges, tins, eskies, cabinets all overflowing with crabs, molluscs, enormous blood red tunas in various states of dissection, flouro orange snappers, white bait, abalone the list in endless.  M I N D B L O W I N G!!!  Incredibly visceral and every sense is on overdrive.  Wear sturdy waterproof footware.

The areas around the markets are also alleys crammed with little hole-in-the-wall-shops selling ceramics, knick-knacks, restaurants, fresh vegetables and everything in between.
We left the market headed for Ginza (2 stops on the Hibiya Line).  The high end fashion, chain and department store precinct, clean and polished.